JUSTIN BOUSQUET
Age: 44 | Years Climbing: 7 | Day Job: UX Writer
What are your climbing goals for next year?
Continue to raise my level of climbing and improve my power endurance. Send V7 outside and V8 at the gym again. Maybe get lead certified (but that’s a big maybe).
How would you describe your climbing style?
#tallbeta all the way. I like to take advantage of my reach and flexibility when I climb.
What is your favorite exercise? What is your most dreaded workout?
Deadlifts are my favorite and I dread my Sunday core workouts on the TRX. But those core workouts make me feel the most accomplished when finished.
Where have you seen the most progress since you started training?
Throwing to small holds. I used to never believe I would hold on, but now it’s hardly a concern. Close second is getting my feet on after cutting on overhanging and roof climbs. The core workouts really pay off.
Favorite crag snack?
Carrots and peanut butter
Favorite hype song?
They Reminisce Over You (T.R.O.Y.) by Pete Rock and C.L. Smooth
Do you have a pre-send ritual?
Take a few deep breaths to calm myself down, tell myself I can do the climb, and then tell myself to try hard right before pulling on.
Summer shredding or winter bulking?
Summer shredding for winter sending.
If you could go on a climbing trip anywhere, where would it be?
Fontainebleau
What has life with Coach G been like?
Awesome. Gal is always open to making adjustments when things aren’t working as intended or when I want to address a specific weakness. Her feedback helps me get better mental pictures for improving my lifting form. And she always gets hyped for all of my successes, even when I might not see them myself. Outside of just the improvements in my climbing and overalls fitness, working with Gal has helped me my self image. I look and feel better than I did in my twenties.
What is one thing you have changed your mind about since starting training?
Sit starts. I still don’t love them but I won’t automatically dismiss them as something I just can’t do.
What is your dream climb?
Right now I just keep thinking about Story of a Hurricane in Fort Tryon Park, but I really want to try Caveman in J Tree.
If you were trapped on an island with just one piece of training equipment, what would it be?
A Beastmaker 2000
What is your favorite article of GP Apparel?
My Deadpoints & Deadlifts tank
Would you recommend Parfenov Training to a friend?
Absolutely and I have many times.
Anything else you would like to share?
This training program has changed my life. It keeps me focused on my goals, never gets boring, and I can’t wait to see what the future holds for my climbing and fitness.