Climbing for 13 years, coaching for 8 years
Sponsored by Organic, Metolius, and Gnarly
Deadlifts over 2.5x bodyweight
Can hold a handstand for 1 minute
Bachelors in biochemistry + exercise science
Has gotten clients to V10 and 5.14
But I don't want you to think that these videos are representative of my coaching style or my own training. Because as a coach and an athlete, I am constantly learning and improving.
I believe that the success of any climber boils down to just 3 things:
This means lots of limit bouldering sessions, learning the compound lifts (especially deadlift and overhead press), and taking the time to work on mobility and calisthenics.
Sure, we want to be good climbers. But as a coach, I make sure all of my clients are also good athletes. If you can climb V14 but don't have the shoulder mobility to do an overhead barbell press, you need to rethink your training program (or lack thereof).
What separates me from other coaches is experience. I've worked at gyms in Colorado, Connecticut, and New York City, as a coach, fitness manager, and routesetter. I've climbed outside all over the United States and Canada (hard to pick a favorite, but Joe's Valley was definitely the college stomping ground). I've placed in the American Bouldering Series and other professional competition circuits, including Dark Horse and Ring of Fire. I've read dozens of programming textbooks cover-to-cover--Tudor's Periodization, Rippetoe's Practical Programming, and Tuchscherer's Reactive Training Systems, to name a few--and adapted those protocols into climbing programs. And then tested those programs on both myself and hundreds of clients. I know what works (and what doesn't!)
I don't do cookie cutter programs because there is not a "one size fits all" in training. I believe in affordable custom programs where you have full access to both me and the resources I have created. When you sign up for training, I am also signing up to be your coach. It's a two-way streak and I am 100% committed to all of my athletes. You can text, email, or call me anytime, and I will respond as soon as I can. I'm looking to build that client-coach relationship and get you to your goals in the process.
Let's get started!
Cautious Abandon, V11 When my friend Chris introduced me to the Shelton boulder back in November, when I was just coming off a pulley injury, and generally not psyched on climbing. The temps were dropping quickly, the individual moves felt stiff, and a send seemed unlikely. Still, I kept going back. I was fascinated by the extremely precise and technical movement, from the committing heel-toe cam at the start, to the narrow compression throughout the middle, to the elusive sloper crux at the end. Why, if I had climbed this grade before, did this feel so much harder? Even in the spring, when I came back stronger and more psyched than ever. Looking back on it, I think it was a mix of certain walls I had construed, and the very mental nature of the climb. If you switched your mind off for just one move, if you forgot a minor footwork cue, if you didn't climb it perfectly, it was over. Just like that. After falling at the sloper move over and over and over again, I was ready to throw in the towel. I could stick the move in isolation 9 times out of 10, yet 0 times out of 10 on redpoint attempts. Then, I found out a way to skip it. And proceeded to fall from the very last throw to the lip four times over two sessions. Then, a few weeks ago, after bailing on friends, drinks, and climbing trips because all I could think about was this climb, I took a day off work, carried out two crashpads and a tripod, cranked up Gaga's Joanne album, and did the damn thing. And just like that, it was over. Months of effort for a single moment. I cried a little, smiled a lot, then life went on. To me, that's what climbing is about.