"My name is Galina Parfenov and I guess I'm a climber."
That was the first line of my first training video, "Training for Climbing," which I published in the summer of 2012.
I didn't make that video for the views, the sponsorships, the so-called fame. I made it because I had fallen deeply and utterly in love with a sport called rock climbing and wanted to share that passion with friends and family. I was ecstatic getting 100 views, let alone over a million. The magnitude and positivity of the response from the climbing and non-climbing world alike was overwhelming, especially as a seventeen-year-old high schooler.
Naturally, I decided to make a sequel, "Advanced Training for Climbing," and share what I had learned since the first video. This video took an entire summer to draft, film, voice, and edit; however, several years later, I am still very much proud of the final product.
Other than for the camera, I trained for two reasons: 1) I wanted to climb V10 and 2) I loved it more than anything (except for possibly climbing outdoors) and couldn't imagine life without it. After six years of climbing and two years of consistent training, I was able to redpoint V11 and onsight 5.13c, and place in both local and national level competitions. And if I had known then what I know today, I would have accomplished these things in half the time with half the effort.
Since my high school years, I have climbed all over the East Coast and Midwest, from Rumney to Joe's Valley, Ten Sleep, Bishop, and Hueco Tanks.
I graduated from Colorado College in three years in 2015 with a Bachelor's in biochemistry and a minor in human kinesiology and exercise physiology. I have become obsessed with and immersed in powerlifting and it's direct relevance to climbing,
I currently work part-time as a setter for Brooklyn Boulders in addition to coaching climbing and powerlifting, and hope to eventually open up my own training space. To clarify, this not "a job"; this is my life, and I have dedicated every available moment to reading textbooks, researching novel programming methods, and becoming the best at what I do. Though I am still fond of the original two training videos, I have come a long way since then; whereas before the question was "when" and "if" I would accomplish the goals I set for myself, I now feel fully in control of my climbing. If I want to send 5.14b, I will make a program, stick to it, and send 5.14b. If I want to deadlift 400 lbs, I will do the same. The only variable is time and commitment. Through both sending and coaching, climbing has become a permanent and defining part of my life. My goal in making this website is to once again share what I know about training and training for climbing, and turn a passion into a tool to help others.
My name is Galina Parfenov and I am a climber.