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JULIA ERNST

Age: 26 | Years Climbing: 6 | Day Job: Nurse + Routesetter

online climbing coach
online climbing coach
online climbing coach

What are your climbing goals for next year?

I want to climb a v6/v7 and a 5.13a outside! That would be rad.

How would you describe your climbing style?

Powerful, crimpy, right sided pogos.

What is your favorite exercise? What is your most dreaded workout?

Hmm… other than a climbing work out - my favorite exercise is deadlifting! My most dreaded exercise is probably TRX plank 😂

Where have you seen the most progress since you started training?

I have seen the most progress in my ability to use slopers.

Favorite crag snack?
Gummy bears!

Do you have a pre-send ritual?

Some visualization, positive self talk and some deep breathing. Oh and a gummy bear.

Summer shredding or winter bulking?

Bulking #ilovefood

If you could go on a climbing trip anywhere, where would it be?

Kalymnos-- because it looks very cool.

What is one thing you have changed your mind about since starting training?

Bouldering isn’t so bad. I used to HATE bouldering, and now I have some bouldering goals and I can see the value in it.

What is your dream climb?

In NC, Black and Blue Velvet 5.13 - not because it’s anything super special but because it was the first 5.13 I had ever seen outside and it’s pretty.

If you were trapped on an island with just one piece of training equipment, what would it be?

A Kilter Board

Would you recommend Parfenov Training to a friend?

Absolutely - 100% - every day of the week!

Anything else you would like to share?

I feel like training with Galina has had positive impact on my routesetting. I’m now better prepared for the physical demands of routesetting but also for forerunning more difficult and complex problems. I love how much more creative I can be now that I know I have the physical fitness and climbing ability to test out my ideas.

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